Niacinamide: What It Does & Why You Need It in Your Routine

DR. LAURA'S GUIDE | MAY 2026

INGREDIENT DEEP DIVE: NIACINAMIDE

This ingredients belongs in almost every routine. It's one of my most consistently-recommended ingredients alongside retinoids. It's not the most exciting ingredient, it doesn't have the cult status of retinol or the prestige of vitamin C. But in clinic, it's one of the most reliably useful things you can put on your skin, and it's significantly underestimated by a lot of people who think of it as a basic or entry-level ingredient.

It isn't. Here's why.

WHAT IS NIACINAMIDE?

Niacinamide is an antioxidant. It's a form of vitamin B3, a water-soluble vitamin that the skin uses in a number of important cellular processes.

It's been studied extensively in dermatology for decades, which means the evidence base behind it is really solid and well-established, which is something we always keep in mind at PHARE.

It works in several ways simultaneously, and we all love a multi-tasker. Most active ingredients do one thing well. Niacinamide does several things well at once, and the combination of those effects is what makes it so broadly useful across different skin concerns.

Close-up of a womans face with freckles, showing a cheek with glowing skin. An illustration of wavy lines in a circle highlights the cheek area, suggesting an oily skin texture. The background is a neutral tone.

regulates sebum production

Niacinamide reduces the amount of oil the sebaceous glands produce, which makes it useful for oily and acne-prone skin.

This is one of the reasons I reach for it so consistently in acne patients — it addresses one of the underlying drivers of breakouts without drying or stripping the skin.

Close up of two female faces with freckles and circular info-icon indicating pigmentation on the skin.

interrupts melanin transfer

I love niacinamide for pigmentation.
Melanin is produced by melanocytes and then transferred to surrounding skin cells — niacinamide interferes with that transfer process, which means pigmented cells are less likely to form in the first place.

It won't replace a dedicated brightening ingredient for significant pigmentation, but it's a useful addition to any routine where uneven skin tone is a concern.

Close-up of a persons face focusing on their eyes with fine lines and wrinkles, with a graphic overlay on the right showing a circular icon featuring wavy lines, resembling ripples or texture.

supports the skin barrier

Niacinamide stimulates the production of ceramides (the lipids that hold the skin barrier together and keep moisture in).
A stronger barrier means less water loss, less sensitivity, and better tolerance of other actives.
This is why it's particularly useful for people whose skin is reactive or easily irritated.

Extreme close-up of redness and rosacea on a face with a circular, white info-icon denoting blood vessels and line indicating the skin condition.

reduces redness and inflammation

Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties that make it useful for rosacea-prone and sensitive skin, as well as for the redness that accompanies acne and post-acne marks.

Close-up of a person touching their cheek, which has visible pores. A graphic circle with dots highlights the texture of the skin, emphasising pore appearance.

minimises the appearance of pores

By regulating sebum and supporting skin texture, niacinamide can reduce the appearance of enlarged pores over time, not by shrinking them structurally, but by keeping them cleaner and reducing the congestion that makes them look larger.

Close-up of a persons face showing acne on the cheek. A magnified circular information-icon highlights skin texture with small spots and blemishes. The background is neutral.

addresses post-acne marks

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (the dark marks left after breakouts) responds well to niacinamide, partly through the melanin transfer mechanism and partly through its anti-inflammatory effect.

The reason I recommend niacinamide so often in clinic is that almost every patient has at least two or three of these concerns at once.

Acne-prone skin that's also sensitive. Pigmentation alongside redness.

A compromised barrier in someone who's also trying to use retinoids.

Niacinamide fits into almost all of those situations without conflict.

It's also low risk for irritation unlike Vitamin C, which can cause irritation in problematic skin.

What concentration to look for

Most well-formulated niacinamide products sit between 2% and 10%.
The research suggests that 5% is effective for most of the benefits listed above, and that going higher doesn't necessarily produce better results, and for some people, concentrations above 10% can cause temporary flushing or irritation.

5% is a good target. Anything in the 2–10% range from a well-made product is worth using.

SHOP PHARE APPROVED NIACINAMIDE PICKS

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How it works alongside other actives

There's a persistent myth that niacinamide and vitamin C can't be used together, that they interact and reduce each other's efficacy, or cause flushing.

This was based on older research and has largely been debunked. At the concentrations used in modern skincare formulations, the two can be used together without significant issue. In practice, I'd still tend to use them at different times of day (vitamin C in the AM, niacinamide AM or PM) simply because that's how most routines are naturally structured, but it's not a hard rule.

Niacinamide and retinoids work very well together. Retinoids can cause dryness and irritation, particularly during the adjustment period, and niacinamide's barrier-supporting and anti-inflammatory properties help counteract both. I often recommend applying niacinamide before a retinoid for exactly this reason; it prepares the skin and reduces the likelihood of irritation without reducing the retinoid's efficacy.

With exfoliating acids (AHAs like glycolic and lactic, or BHAs like salicylic acid), niacinamide is generally compatible. It can actually be a useful buffer: the barrier support it provides helps the skin tolerate acids better, particularly for people who find their skin sensitive to exfoliation.

WHO SHOULD USE NIACINAMIDE?

Almost everyone. That's not an exaggeration!!

It's genuinely one of the few ingredients without a meaningful list of contraindications.
Oily skin, dry skin, sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, skin dealing with pigmentation, skin on prescription treatments, skin in perimenopause. It suits all of them.

The exceptions are very few. Some people experience mild flushing at higher concentrations, though this is uncommon at 5% and tends to resolve with continued use. If you have a known sensitivity to vitamin B3 — which is rare — it's worth starting slowly.

Otherwise, if niacinamide isn't in your routine already, it probably should be

METACELL RENEWAL B3 | SKINCEUTICALS

A lightweight daily emulsion combining 5% niacinamide with a tripeptide complex .

You need this if:

- Your skin is looking uneven, blotchy or dull and you want to address tone and texture together

- You're dealing with early signs of ageing (fine lines, loss of firmness).

- You want a product that works morning and evening without layering multiple steps

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La Roche Posay Mela B3 Serum niacinamide

MELA B3 | LA ROCHE POSAY

Developed specifically for uneven skin tone with gentle exfoliation and melanin-inhibiting actives built in.

You need this if:

- Pigmentation or uneven skin tone is your main concern

- You have sensitive skin that doesn't always tolerate active ingredients well
- You want a dedicated treatment step that targets dark spots without aggression

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NIACINAMIDE PEPTIDES | MEDIK8

Niacinamide and peptides in one lightweight step, working on the barrier & anti-geing.

You need this if:

- You're starting to notice fine lines alongside skin texture or sensitivity

- You want the benefits of niacinamide and a peptide serum without running both

- You prefer a minimal routine that still delivers meaningful results

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360° PIGMENT SOLUTION FLUID SPF 50+ | HELIOCARE

A pigmentation-focused SPF that also contains niacinamide & ellagic acid.

I wanted to give this a shout out because again, it's a multitasker; your SPF is delivering the benefits of niacinamide every morning. For anyone dealing with pigmentation, this is a smart way to get more out of a product you should be using anyway.

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INTRODUCE NIACINAMIDE TODAY

If you're not currently using an antioxidant, you should be! It's one of my Core Four skincare ingredients, and contributes to long-term skin health. Niacinamide is the easiest antioxidant to introduce to any routine.

Start today, thank yourself in 6 months.

SHOP PHARE APPROVED NIACINAMIDE PRODUCTS

The information in this article is intended for general educational purposes only. It is not a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. If you have concerns about your skin, please speak to your GP or a qualified medical professional. If you'd like to discuss your skin with us directly, we're happy to help.

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